Readers may recall this post I wrote about buying a new hand mitre saw, some years ago. Unfortunately, that proved to be a poor replacement for the previous saw*, and still languishes in its box, waiting on me finding an eBay punter to take it off my hands.
So just after Christmas, I bit the bullet and ordered a powered compound sliding mitre saw online. I read some reviews for models in my price range beforehand, and looked at some review videos on YouTube, before settling on a Metabo I could afford.
It came in record time, with the wrong plug attached, a glitch the seller was quick to resolve by sending me an adapter free of charge. I read the manual through several times, given that learn as you go while using a razor sharp whirling wheel of death and dismemberment seemed like a really bad idea. I fixed the saw to a sturdy slab of plywood, only to discover that its cast metal base was tilted up at one corner. Not in any hurry to send it back for a replacement that was not guaranteed to be any better, I soldiered on and made a test frame using the saw.
The mitres turned out well, which was, after all, the point of buying it in the first place. I cut some picture frame moulding to fit a couple of small paintings and assembled the pieces to make sure the corners looked okay, which they did. Tight, accurate mitres.
And now I need an underpinner and a point gun.
Things to bear in mind:
1) Safety. You'll need safety glasses, hearing protection, and a dustmask. A turning blade can throw things in your face. The saw is surprisingly loud, and will damage unprotected hearing. And wood dust is just plain nasty.
2) RTFM. Read the manual before you turn the machine on and use it for the first time. Again, YouTube is your friend. There are a lot of videos about using mitre saws.
3) Make sure the wood is firmly clamped, and let the saw get up to speed before making a steady, smooth cut. This helps avoid tear-out.
4) Keep your fingers well away from the blade.
5) There's a work light and a laser on the cutting head. The work light is useful, but I find the laser distracting and not much use for its intended purpose of showing you where the blade will cut.
6) The sliding function is useful in dealing with wide stock, and the turntable for cutting mitred angles is smooth and accurate; but the tilting head for compound angles is a liability when it comes to cutting simple mitres. If it moves, it can get out of whack and mess up your cuts. Something to consider if you have a model in mind. I've fixed the head bolt upright at a measured 90 degrees and never touch the tilt lever at all.
In fact... if all you want to cut is picture frame mitres, you might be better off getting a table saw and making a mitre sled.
7) Lastly, never get complacent when using a tool like this. If you're slightly anxious about using it every time you plug it in, that's a healthy attitude.
Accidents with power tools can turn very ugly very quickly. (Do a 'woodwork accident' image search on Google if you don't believe me. A little stomach churning, but very educational.)
Is this a good solution to the problem of framing my work?
Meh. In a perfect world, I'd send my PA up the road to Bramptons to see if my huge annual order was ready, and have her pick them up by the skip load in my personal hovercraft. I wouldn't waste a minute making frames or priming boards, or stretching canvases, because time you spend doing these things is time you could spend painting.
But it is a solution, and the best one available to me here and now.
Framing your work presents it in its best aspect. It's an essential part of professional practice. Learning how to do it yourself, and do it well, is one solution to a problem all painters have.
* I lent my previous mitre saw to a relative. Never, ever, do that.
In fact, if anyone ever asks to borrow one of your tools - your precious, lovely, useful, expensive, well maintained and cared for tools - just stab them until they go away. Use a freshly sharpened pencil. Make an angry face. Say, 'No. No. No,' repeatedly, in time with the little stabby motions, as you advance on them. Go for the soft spots, and strike with venom.
They have to learn. It's for the best.
So just after Christmas, I bit the bullet and ordered a powered compound sliding mitre saw online. I read some reviews for models in my price range beforehand, and looked at some review videos on YouTube, before settling on a Metabo I could afford.
It came in record time, with the wrong plug attached, a glitch the seller was quick to resolve by sending me an adapter free of charge. I read the manual through several times, given that learn as you go while using a razor sharp whirling wheel of death and dismemberment seemed like a really bad idea. I fixed the saw to a sturdy slab of plywood, only to discover that its cast metal base was tilted up at one corner. Not in any hurry to send it back for a replacement that was not guaranteed to be any better, I soldiered on and made a test frame using the saw.
The mitres turned out well, which was, after all, the point of buying it in the first place. I cut some picture frame moulding to fit a couple of small paintings and assembled the pieces to make sure the corners looked okay, which they did. Tight, accurate mitres.
And now I need an underpinner and a point gun.
Things to bear in mind:
1) Safety. You'll need safety glasses, hearing protection, and a dustmask. A turning blade can throw things in your face. The saw is surprisingly loud, and will damage unprotected hearing. And wood dust is just plain nasty.
2) RTFM. Read the manual before you turn the machine on and use it for the first time. Again, YouTube is your friend. There are a lot of videos about using mitre saws.
3) Make sure the wood is firmly clamped, and let the saw get up to speed before making a steady, smooth cut. This helps avoid tear-out.
4) Keep your fingers well away from the blade.
5) There's a work light and a laser on the cutting head. The work light is useful, but I find the laser distracting and not much use for its intended purpose of showing you where the blade will cut.
6) The sliding function is useful in dealing with wide stock, and the turntable for cutting mitred angles is smooth and accurate; but the tilting head for compound angles is a liability when it comes to cutting simple mitres. If it moves, it can get out of whack and mess up your cuts. Something to consider if you have a model in mind. I've fixed the head bolt upright at a measured 90 degrees and never touch the tilt lever at all.
In fact... if all you want to cut is picture frame mitres, you might be better off getting a table saw and making a mitre sled.
7) Lastly, never get complacent when using a tool like this. If you're slightly anxious about using it every time you plug it in, that's a healthy attitude.
Accidents with power tools can turn very ugly very quickly. (Do a 'woodwork accident' image search on Google if you don't believe me. A little stomach churning, but very educational.)
Is this a good solution to the problem of framing my work?
Meh. In a perfect world, I'd send my PA up the road to Bramptons to see if my huge annual order was ready, and have her pick them up by the skip load in my personal hovercraft. I wouldn't waste a minute making frames or priming boards, or stretching canvases, because time you spend doing these things is time you could spend painting.
But it is a solution, and the best one available to me here and now.
Framing your work presents it in its best aspect. It's an essential part of professional practice. Learning how to do it yourself, and do it well, is one solution to a problem all painters have.
* I lent my previous mitre saw to a relative. Never, ever, do that.
In fact, if anyone ever asks to borrow one of your tools - your precious, lovely, useful, expensive, well maintained and cared for tools - just stab them until they go away. Use a freshly sharpened pencil. Make an angry face. Say, 'No. No. No,' repeatedly, in time with the little stabby motions, as you advance on them. Go for the soft spots, and strike with venom.
They have to learn. It's for the best.
